Garry MacKenzie
Oysters
Before writing ‘Oysters’, I’d been working on a series of short, dense prose poems about fish and other sea creatures, which made extensive use of highly technical scientific vocabulary as well as found and appropriated phrases from a range of sources. Originally I planned for an oyster poem to be part of that sequence, but when I started researching bivalves I felt there was so much more to say than would fit in a short poem. I was fascinated by the quirks of oyster biology, and by how their over-harvesting in the Firth of Forth (and indeed worldwide) might serve as an ecological parable for wider human exploitation of the world around us. Although ‘Oysters’ develops a serious argument, rather like a prose essay, I also wanted it to have an exuberance to it, as a way of bringing into the poem a sense of oysters as a teeming multitude. The first way I did this was by using a vocabulary that ranges from scientific terminology to a poetic register which echoes John Milton. The other way I tried to generate exuberance was through rhythm: the repeated ‘consider’ and frequent use of semicolons are partly there to give a sense of relentlessness. I also like how versatile ‘consider’ is: I use it to introduce all kinds of subject matter, from gamete formation to the philosophy of Immanuel Kant. And ‘consider’ addresses the reader directly – in this poem they’re being asked to reflect upon the wider ecological significance of every detail.
Oysters
Sæ mec fedde, sund-helm þeahte,
ond mec yþa wrugon eorþan getenge,
feþelease. Oft ic flode ongean
muð ontynde.
Nu wile monna sum
min flæsc fretan, felles ne recceð,
siþþan he me of sidan seaxes orde
hyd arypeð, ond mec hraþe siþþan
iteð unsodene eac…
Anglo-Saxon Riddle
An oyster lives a dreadful but exciting life. Indeed, his chance to live at all is slim, and if he should survive the arrows of his own outrageous fortune and in the two weeks of his carefree youth find a clean smooth place to fix on, the years afterwards are full of stress, passion, and danger.
M.F.K. Fisher
The tactics of greed are astonishing; they have no limits, not even those of their own destruction.
Alberto Manguel
I
Consider a creature that looks like deep time; consider accretion,
filtration, fructification; consider that humans weren’t there when God
laid the foundations of the earth, or when he shut up the sea
behind its doors, or when he walked in search of its depth, but oysters
probably were; consider that an oyster from 200 million years ago
looks much the same as one today; consider spawning
as a fog of potentiality; consider animal lithogenesis,
whereby the minerals secreted to produce a shell
agglomerate through time into reefs of calcium carbonate,
with the ability over millions of years to consolidate
into certain kinds of limestone; consider that one form of life
can create the conditions for others to flourish;
consider that the oyster’s job is not to bind together light, and yet
there are pearls; consider that oysters were among the most
successful species on earth, until homo sapiens began to trade.
II
The oyster has no bright surface markings, no charismatic
mating dance, no elaborate nest-building ritual.
Its genitalia can’t compete in relative size with those of the barnacle.
Despite all this it is (or was) the most prolific
and sexually fluid of beings. Consider that a female
releases eight million ova at a time, and a male will release
tens of thousands of balls of sperm, each containing 2,000 gametes
(an oyster envisages profusion beyond human imagination);
consider that each oyster matures as a male and after his first spawning
changes to female and releases eggs (consider rhythmical consecutive
sexuality); consider that when food supply is poor a female
will shift back to male, and that this hermaphroditic routine
is a permanent feature of oyster existence.
Consider that oysters need no aphrodisiacs.
Consider that egg production requires more energy than sperm,
so that life is female in times of plenty. Self-fertilisation is rare.
III
Consider reproduction as watchmaking
on a microscopic scale; consider the gossamer web
travelled by enzymes; the currents and chemical surges
in which the Spirit hovers over the follicles
and stimulates gamete formation. Consider the voyage
from ovary to mantle then out into free-swimming chance;
emission of attractant compounds bringing sperm into orbit;
synchronised chemotactic swimming; the acrosome reaction
in the sperm tip leading to dissolution of the oocyte coat;
fusion of cells, governed by binding proteins; depolarisation
of egg membrane in order to repel additional sperm. Consider
the balance of cost between present and future procreation.
IV
But life is never just mechano-chemical. Reality defeats
quantification, outpaces our concepts. Consider
the transcendental geometry of the shell;
consider roughness encasing pearly intimacy.
Consider yourself into a slower reality, so that the gradual
calcification of the mantle edge is revealed
as the very whirlwind of being; consider Kant:
however deeply we explore the world’s objects, we deal
with nothing whatever but appearances; consider the self as layers
of interiority, and the fact that the growth rings of an oyster
are only visible from the inside. Things are what they are
yet not as they appear. You might long to run a finger
over mother-of-pearl, savour the lustrous luxury
of oyster flesh in light, partake of its salty viscosity –
but how to marry this with what an oyster knows
of itself? Consider that oysters were one of the great subjects
of Dutch still life. Consider nature manifesting its own imagination.
V
Each oyster is a firth opening into possibility;
likewise, each word opens up the world
by virtue of the chance and inference
and unintentionality of meaning.
Consider that a thriving oyster reef
is a multispecies assemblage; then consider
that phrases linked by semicolons
become independent clauses, with each as significant
as the other: grammatical clusters; conurbations;
symbioses; ecosystems; oyster reefs.
VI
Consider the lack of phenotypic change over time:
solid, hinged shell; enlarged gills and cilia; planktonic
larval stage; retention of larval byssus into adulthood
allowing habitation of tidal coasts: all these
are early Mesozoic. See also: logarithmic spirals
leading to concavity; both valves (or shells)
being geometrically distinct so that the hinge
can open freely; intraspecific variability of shape;
cementation to substrate meaning that the valve
moulds to the contours of rock, to other oysters
in the reef, to whatever substrates are drawn
in the planktonic lottery: a wooden pier, an old
sea-pickled boot, a Chinese teapot, a champagne bottle from the wreck
of HMS Victory. See also: density of body lower than
sediment density, preventing sinking; foliated calcite shell
forming defence against predation from reptiles, starfish
and shell-crushing cephalopods, as well as gastropods
with the ability to drill. Consider that if this poem
represented the entire history of oysters
then homo sapiens might constitute the last two words;
the Roman Empire or the Qin Dynasty
would be the tip of the final letter; and market capitalism
a fraction of the ink in the concluding full stop.
VII
Oyster larvae are planktonic: they swim in currents
and capture food before these adolescent skills
are rendered obsolete by adulthood. Propulsion by cilia
drives the larva upward in a spiral, followed by sinking,
followed by another coiling swim towards the light.
Consider that vertical cylindrical helix fails to capture
the fragility of its leaps and falls; the fledgling’s ragged,
current-shook elegance; the concomitant, unending
threat of existing in water. Consider that millions
will not survive to metamorphosis,
in which the cilia’s role changes from locomotion
to filter-feeding, and a foot anchors him (then her,
then him again) in place for life; consider that extension
of the foot requires an instant decision about whether
the substrate is suitable, with an error of judgement
potentially fatal. Consider the silken filaments
of byssus, holding the young oyster in the place
where it will henceforth always dwell;
where it will think upon the water filtered
by its gills (which might be fifty gallons a day);
where it will build new shell in alternating layers
of opacity and translucence (viewed from inside of course);
where it will ultimately decompose.
VIII
Consider culch: the shells of ancestral oysters;
the debris of their lives; the testaceous husks
which strow the estuaries of the world like leaves
in autumn valleys. Reef-foundation;
substrate of choice; gregarious ecosystem;
influencer of the waterborne
flux of food. Tendency towards
structural complexity. Tide-break; carbon-sink;
regulator of light to benthic flora.
Consider taphonomic feedback: legacies
that pass from the living into the fossil record.
Consider that no scientist alive today has seen
a fully healthy oyster reef.
Consider our own gifts to the fossil record.
IX
Oysters are specialists in negative capability: the ebb
and flow of intertidal salinity; perpetuality
of change in estuarial environments.
Consider that the Firth of Forth
once had the richest oyster beds in Europe,
with no uncertainties and doubts
about their future. There were Neolithic oyster middens
six feet high and as permanent
as castle walls. In the eighteenth century it was thought
they were ancient monuments; in the twentieth century
one was uncovered while oil pipelines
were installed at Grangemouth. Consider that Burns,
Boswell, Smith and Hume
would have downed gallons of oysters and porter
in Royal Mile taverns; that no less a rake
than George IV found time to praise
the looks of the oyster-sellers of the Forth.
Consider privatisation of the oyster beds; marking
of territories; encroachments; litigation;
consider railways and a newfound, near-infinite
demand for export. Consider increased dredging
and its impact on the culch. Consider warnings undermined
by lack of effective regulation: laissez-faire;
a tragic commons; mutually assured destruction.
Consider sewage outflow and water acidification.
Consider (irony of etymology)
that the finest oysters were named pandores,
as they lived close to the doors of coastal salt pans,
but that little has been learned from the Pandora myth
about the long-term sustainability of bivalve shucking.
Once 30 million Forth oysters were harvested
in a year. In 1850 it was thousands. After 1920
they weren’t even bycatch. One was found alive in 1947.
X
Functional extinction is a decline in population
of over 99%. What’s true for the Forth is true
in every elsewhere: at one time Virginia was known
as the land of milk and honey
and oysters. See also: the Gulf of Mexico;
the Australian coasts; the estuaries and shores
of mainland Europe; and so on.
Consider that oysters were the first invertebrate
to be harvested into scarcity; that oysters,
along with American Bison, are emblems
par excellence of human greed; that the byssus
which connects all to all
will not take infinite strain.
XI
For oysters in the Forth, read haddock,
herring, cod. Consider that by the time
Eliot wrote of nymphs departing the river,
the Forth was completely denuded of oysters
and the other fisheries were in terminal decline.
For oysters in the Forth, read the repeating pattern
by which coal and offshore oil are exploited;
read uranium, gallium, tantalum; read
fresh water.
XII
Consider Edward Forbes in 1852:
an undisturbed oyster bed is a concentration
of happiness…each individual leading
the beautified existence of an Epicurean god.
The worlds without – its cares and joys,
its storms and calms – are all indifferent
to the unheeding oyster.
XIII
Each filament of the branchial fringe
is covered in cilia. These hurry towards the mouth
whatever particles they find and, with precision,
the grooves and ridges and ciliary currents
sort the particles to eat from those to be expelled.
The cilia beat. Ingestion is rhythmical
as the tide is rhythmical. The cilia beat.
Oysters improve water clarity by constant filtering:
consider the consequent, immeasurable
value to other beings. The cilia beat.
Consider the unknowability
of other lives; profusion; the perforated
boundaries between us all. The cilia
beat. Consider human scales of time and space
as a negligible fraction of reality.
Consider comradeship with species
of the kind practised daily on oyster reefs.
Consider the middens of outnumbering dead:
consider that these man-high relics
are the only remains of the people who built them.